The Land of Sheep and Hobbits

This post is massively delayed, but between returning to the States, dealing with jet lag, and working to get out of debt, I just haven't had the chance to sit down and write this (no matter, how amazing it was). Anyway, during the exam period at the end of the semester (in mid-June) I managed to steal 9 days in New Zealand (only on the South Island unfortunately) between my last of three final papers and my one and only final. I went it alone because most of my housemates had already been and the timing was very specific to my schedule. I found a great, hop-on hop-off bus tour however, which ended up working out perfectly because I met lots of other single travellers and didn't have to worry about driving or finding hostels.

I crammed so many things into those 9 days it would be impossible to talk about all of them here - and you'd probably get sick of reading after about page 5 - so I present the highlights below.

Literally my second whole day in New Zealand, I climbed on a glacier. Yes, New Zealand has glaciers...three actually. I walked on Franz Josef Glacier, took pictures of Fox Glacier, and was told of Tasman Glacier. It was a bit rainy all day, but that's what makes the glacier so I couldn't complain too much. We were on the ice for 6 hours and saw both white ice (more air) and blue ice; particularly gorgeous were the ice caves, formed from water running through the ice. Our guides also decided to make us crawl through a claustrophobia-inducing tunnel - photographic evidence below. It was one of the most awesome experiences ever.

Franz Josef glacier; blue ice cave; claustrophobia tunnel; view from glacier toward valley



Although I did spend many hours on the bus driving from place to place at a (surprisingly) rapid pace, we stopped frequently to go on walks and take pictures of various scenery. While just about everything was absolutely breathtaking and pratically untouched, after a certain point it is difficult to come up with better tags than "Mountains," "Mountains 2," "Mountains 3," "View from (blank)," and "View from (blank) 2." Check out my flickr, you'll see.

Mountain reflected in lake; "Gates of Haast" (so very LOTR); wiggly bridge; ski cabin hostel in the middle of nowhere; beautiful scenery




The big stop on the South Island is Queenstown...also known as the adventure capital of the world. On the way we stopped in Wanaka and visited Puzzling World; it's a hard to describe - interactive quasi-museum - with a gigantic person sized labyrinth, optical illusion rooms, and plenty of puzzles to mess around with (and probably fail at). I stayed in a hostel with most of my friends from the bus, which was great. Aside from the adventure activities, more on that later, I also ate a few huge burgers from a great joint called Fergburger. The picture below includes my Australian cellphone (which is fairly standard in size) for scale. Seriously, one of the best burgers I've ever had if not the best.

Labyrinth; moon over mountains; Fergburger



My first day in Queenstown I bungy jumped for the second time from the 3rd highest bungy in the world (134 meters compared to my 50 meter original jump). It's called Nevis and is a suspended pod in the middle of a gorge. The fall to the end of the bungy extension can take up to 8.5 seconds...aka it's intense. And amazing! I will brag about this for the rest of my life. Perhaps one of the scariest parts was the ride over to the pod in the cable car; it was entirely open on the sides and, though we were firmly attached to a safety line, it was still unnerving.

Suspended pod and cable car; mid-jump (somewhere around the 4 second mark?)


After the bungy, I did a jetboat through a very small canyon. It was also fun, as expected, though very, very, very cold. The boats were capable of doing 360 degree spins - both thrilling and different (though nothing compared to the adrenalin rush of my earlier jump).

I said goodbye to most of my Stray bus friends that night as they were heading off to do the most southern parts of the island that I didn't have time for. Instead, I had a day tour of Milford Sound planned. Funnily enough, the bus I was on followed the Stray bus (which goes to Milford on the first day of the southern loop) all the way to the Sound and was actually on the same boat, so I got to defect from my new tourmates in favor of more time with my Stray friends. It was rather hazy, which was a cool effect but I would have been happy for it to raise and let some sun in. It was definitely awe inspiring in person, but the pictures do it much less justice than usual because you can't see the mountain peaks.

My busmates; Milford Sound


After a full day in Milford Sound, I spent the next day on the bus back up to Christchurch. I visited the International Antarctic Center and putzed (is there a correct way to spell that word?) around town for the day, then headed slightly out of "town center" - if you can call it that - to go to an All Blacks game. For those out of the loop, the All Blacks are New Zealand's national rugby union team. They were playing England, which was especially exciting because NZ is a big destination for the British, so there were plenty of opposition fans. The All Blacks creamed England, and it didn't rain so all in all it was a good night (though it was ridiculously cold - stupid wind).

Christchurch cathedral; All Blacks game


After the game, I returned to the airport where I spent my time before my 6am flight. This meant being locked out of the terminals and sleeping on a very uncomfortable chair in the International Arrivals area. Thankfully, I wasn't kicked out into the cold Christchurch night, as I have no idea where I would have stayed or what I would have done for about four hours at midnight in New Zealand.

These photos definitely don't do the place justice (neither do any of the 200 or so I took) but feel free to peruse my flickr; the pictures there were uploaded and tagged with care, so many of them have additional information on them.

One more post to come as a general wrap-up, thoughts, etc. especially about reverse culture shock (wait...I'm supposed to look left first?! since when?).

To Thine Own Self Be True

One of the greatest quotes from a classic teen movie seems appropriate to open this post...
Heather: It's just like Hamlet said, "To thine own self be true."
Cher: Hamlet didn't say that.
Heather: I think I remember Hamlet accurately.
Cher: Well I remember Mel Gibson accurately, and he didn't say that. That Polonius guy did.
(Clueless)

Last night, I finally got to see a show at the Opera House...Hamlet. I chose it for a couple of reasons: 1. I could get $30 tickets because I'm under 27 (yay! for encouraging theater for us younger folk), 2. although I am enamored with the Bard, I have yet to see many of his plays live, 3. I read Hamlet in senior year and realized then that it would probably make much more sense on stage, and 4. it's Hamlet! Unfortunately, I couldn't convince anyone to go along with me because no one I asked shares my love of 3 1/2 hour tragedies set in Denmark.

In short, the show was fantastic. Though they spoke the lines as written by Shakespeare, the costumes and set were given a modern spin - i.e. the actors wore suits, button down shirts, and dresses - though the climactic fight scene was still fought with swords. I forgot just how many iconic Shakespearean quotes/scenes come from this play; there's the obvious "To be or not to be" speech, the scene involving a skull (which doesn't occur, contrary to popular belief, during the aforementioned speech), "to thine own self be true," and the oft misquoted "the lady protests too much" (often stated as "the lady doth protest too much"). All of the actors were superb, and it was clear they had studied the material and understood what they were saying.

Unsurprisingly, the actor that really stood out to me was Brendan Cowell - aka Hamlet. I did a little research when I got home, and found out that he is a bit of a theater Renaissance man in that he acts in all the major mediums (film, tv, and theater), writes critically acclaimed plays, and occasionally directs. He has also never had formal acting classes and has had roles on some hit Australian shows. I enjoyed this interview I stumbled across in which he talks specifically about this role: "You only get one shot at Hamlet."

There were a few groups of secondary school students in attendance and, unfortunately for all of us, one of the teachers got ill in the final act and the show had to be stopped to attend to her...wait for it...during Hamlet's death speech. Yes, you read that correctly and yes, it was a little devastating. There were a couple of good things that came out of it. First, it showed the Brendan Cowell doesn't have a monstrous ego, as it was actually he who reacted to the commotion in the audience and had the stage manager stop the show. When she had been taken care of, he preceeded to rewind and re-perform the final speech, even though he had already done so. Also, not to make light of the situation, but *spoiler* in the last act of Hamlet pretty much everyone dies. Thus, when the show was stopped, quite a few dead bodies re-animated to keep track of what was going on. Once the show recommenced one actress (Heather Mitchell playing Gertrude, Hamlet's mother) milked her return to death for all it was worth and got an appreciative laugh from the audience. In the end, though some of the mood was lost, the finale still brought tears to my eyes in the good way.

On a totally unrelated note, I closed my Commonwealth bank account on Tuesday (aka my Australian bank). This was really the first step toward my leaving and my final days - after completing three final papers in the last week and a half. It's definitely starting to set in that soon, I'll be leaving Australia for the States. I'm betting now that it will be bittersweet; I'll certainly be glad to be home and see friends and family I haven't seen in 4 or 5 months, but I'm definitely going to miss this place. Especially the not working part...

I will leave you with some night shots of Circular Quay I took before the play:


ps - I'm still behind on one post, my Blue Mountains trip with Ellen, but I'm headed off to New Zealand for 9 days tomorrow, so don't be expecting that before I get back. After I take my final, I'll try to spend a day getting caught up on everything (which will be heaps after all the adventures I plan to have in New Zealand). And with that, I'm off to pack.

LAX

Thus far today I have survived not sleeping last night (so I'd be tired for the flights and avoid jet lag as much as possible), a 5:30 am cab ride to National, absolutely no difficulties in Denver, waiting in line twice for ticketing for Qantas (the Australian airline), and being on hold for more than an hour and a half with STA trying to get my Sydney ticket reissued because I'm an idiot...don't ask. I've been in an airport since 6 am this morning and have had 10+ hours of layover time thus far.

I met a ridiculous British woman who is on my flight at dinner. She moved over and sat near me and another guy also travelling to Sydney (not on our flight). Carole - with an "e" so I wouldn't forget - promptly invited me to stay at her house 3 hours north of Sydney. She's also let me in on the best white wine to buy. She was going to visit me on the plane when she got bored, but was surprised when I said I could, hypothetically, sleep 10 of the 14 hours the flight takes. She also told a couple of stories multiple times, but it was nice to have someone else to talk to after a day of travelling alone.

Finally, I exchanged the bulk of my cash in the airport tonight. First, the Australian dollar is finally worth more than the American dollar ($1.03 bought 1$AUD). Second, their bills are really really pretty. They get longer as they go up in denomination and they only have singles as coins, not bills. 5s are purple, 10s are blue, 20s are red, and 50s are yellow; they also all have a cutout with a plastic inlay that is kind of awesome.