The Land of Sheep and Hobbits

This post is massively delayed, but between returning to the States, dealing with jet lag, and working to get out of debt, I just haven't had the chance to sit down and write this (no matter, how amazing it was). Anyway, during the exam period at the end of the semester (in mid-June) I managed to steal 9 days in New Zealand (only on the South Island unfortunately) between my last of three final papers and my one and only final. I went it alone because most of my housemates had already been and the timing was very specific to my schedule. I found a great, hop-on hop-off bus tour however, which ended up working out perfectly because I met lots of other single travellers and didn't have to worry about driving or finding hostels.

I crammed so many things into those 9 days it would be impossible to talk about all of them here - and you'd probably get sick of reading after about page 5 - so I present the highlights below.

Literally my second whole day in New Zealand, I climbed on a glacier. Yes, New Zealand has glaciers...three actually. I walked on Franz Josef Glacier, took pictures of Fox Glacier, and was told of Tasman Glacier. It was a bit rainy all day, but that's what makes the glacier so I couldn't complain too much. We were on the ice for 6 hours and saw both white ice (more air) and blue ice; particularly gorgeous were the ice caves, formed from water running through the ice. Our guides also decided to make us crawl through a claustrophobia-inducing tunnel - photographic evidence below. It was one of the most awesome experiences ever.

Franz Josef glacier; blue ice cave; claustrophobia tunnel; view from glacier toward valley



Although I did spend many hours on the bus driving from place to place at a (surprisingly) rapid pace, we stopped frequently to go on walks and take pictures of various scenery. While just about everything was absolutely breathtaking and pratically untouched, after a certain point it is difficult to come up with better tags than "Mountains," "Mountains 2," "Mountains 3," "View from (blank)," and "View from (blank) 2." Check out my flickr, you'll see.

Mountain reflected in lake; "Gates of Haast" (so very LOTR); wiggly bridge; ski cabin hostel in the middle of nowhere; beautiful scenery




The big stop on the South Island is Queenstown...also known as the adventure capital of the world. On the way we stopped in Wanaka and visited Puzzling World; it's a hard to describe - interactive quasi-museum - with a gigantic person sized labyrinth, optical illusion rooms, and plenty of puzzles to mess around with (and probably fail at). I stayed in a hostel with most of my friends from the bus, which was great. Aside from the adventure activities, more on that later, I also ate a few huge burgers from a great joint called Fergburger. The picture below includes my Australian cellphone (which is fairly standard in size) for scale. Seriously, one of the best burgers I've ever had if not the best.

Labyrinth; moon over mountains; Fergburger



My first day in Queenstown I bungy jumped for the second time from the 3rd highest bungy in the world (134 meters compared to my 50 meter original jump). It's called Nevis and is a suspended pod in the middle of a gorge. The fall to the end of the bungy extension can take up to 8.5 seconds...aka it's intense. And amazing! I will brag about this for the rest of my life. Perhaps one of the scariest parts was the ride over to the pod in the cable car; it was entirely open on the sides and, though we were firmly attached to a safety line, it was still unnerving.

Suspended pod and cable car; mid-jump (somewhere around the 4 second mark?)


After the bungy, I did a jetboat through a very small canyon. It was also fun, as expected, though very, very, very cold. The boats were capable of doing 360 degree spins - both thrilling and different (though nothing compared to the adrenalin rush of my earlier jump).

I said goodbye to most of my Stray bus friends that night as they were heading off to do the most southern parts of the island that I didn't have time for. Instead, I had a day tour of Milford Sound planned. Funnily enough, the bus I was on followed the Stray bus (which goes to Milford on the first day of the southern loop) all the way to the Sound and was actually on the same boat, so I got to defect from my new tourmates in favor of more time with my Stray friends. It was rather hazy, which was a cool effect but I would have been happy for it to raise and let some sun in. It was definitely awe inspiring in person, but the pictures do it much less justice than usual because you can't see the mountain peaks.

My busmates; Milford Sound


After a full day in Milford Sound, I spent the next day on the bus back up to Christchurch. I visited the International Antarctic Center and putzed (is there a correct way to spell that word?) around town for the day, then headed slightly out of "town center" - if you can call it that - to go to an All Blacks game. For those out of the loop, the All Blacks are New Zealand's national rugby union team. They were playing England, which was especially exciting because NZ is a big destination for the British, so there were plenty of opposition fans. The All Blacks creamed England, and it didn't rain so all in all it was a good night (though it was ridiculously cold - stupid wind).

Christchurch cathedral; All Blacks game


After the game, I returned to the airport where I spent my time before my 6am flight. This meant being locked out of the terminals and sleeping on a very uncomfortable chair in the International Arrivals area. Thankfully, I wasn't kicked out into the cold Christchurch night, as I have no idea where I would have stayed or what I would have done for about four hours at midnight in New Zealand.

These photos definitely don't do the place justice (neither do any of the 200 or so I took) but feel free to peruse my flickr; the pictures there were uploaded and tagged with care, so many of them have additional information on them.

One more post to come as a general wrap-up, thoughts, etc. especially about reverse culture shock (wait...I'm supposed to look left first?! since when?).

"Everything I say today seems to come out sounding sexual"

So, the second to last weekend in May, Ellen, Jess (a fellow Cornell student), and I took a holiday to the Blue Mountains. Yes, it was a long time ago...trust me, you want to see the pictures. (Also, to clarify now, the title quote comes from our guide. We manage to keep our minds and speech out of the gutter occassionally.)

Though it's fairly easy to get to the Blue Mountains via a train from Sydney, we opted to book a tour because that way we didn't have to plan everything. The less work I have to do and the more fun I have, the better. We booked through Oz Experience, so we did all the touristy sites on Friday, stayed overnight in a hostel in Katoomba (the main town) on Friday and Saturday nights, and had 2 free days. Day one, our bus driver/tour guide was Adam...who showed up at the meet-up point with overbite dentures and a mullet wig. Ellen and Jess were a little bit taken in (mostly because it was 7am), but I knew from the get-go they were fake. On our way to the mountains we stopped at a campsite and found some wild kangaroos snacking on freshly cut grass (apparently a favorite dish).

Eastern Gray Kangaroos and me; kangaroos listening to something


We did two walks on Friday; the first was along the cliff edge and involved more stairs going up than going down (not a good ratio). The other took us down the Furber stairs, past the Three Sisters, and finally back up the mountainside with a ride on the world's steepest railway. It was built to carry coal from mines, not people, up the hillside and clocks in at 52 degrees - aka you stand and hope you don't tumble forward to the bottom of the train.

Cliff lookout; Three Sisters; many stairs (Furber Stairs); attempt to show steepest railway



I had been told by my house manager- Justin, if you've forgotten - that the Jenolan Caves were not to be missed, so that's what we did with our entirely free day on Saturday. On our way back, we stopped and saw more wild kangaroos. The last group had been about 6 or 7, but there were at least 10 in this clearing.

Clouds sitting in a valley; feeding kangaroos


Jenolan has heaps of what they call "show" caves of which we toured two. The first, the Lucas cave, is known for it's huge caverns and acoustics. The second, the Orient cave, is known for its decoration; the walls were practically covered in crystal from floor to ceiling. So gorgeous! After touring two caves (each tour takes a little over an hour) Ellen and Jess were done for the day, but I could have visited all of them if we had had the time. The pictures don't even come close to doing the caves justice, but it's the best I could do...

Lucas cave; "The Bishop," formation in the Lucas cave; "Indian Headdress," formation in the Orient cave; crystals



Sunday, we planned a walk of our own. Unfortunately, our planned route was closed for repair, so we made the best of it and set off in another direction. We lucked out and stumbled across a great lookout from the cliff wall in the Leura Cascades area.

Leura Cascades


As always, this is no where near all of my photos, so look at my flickr to see the rest (including a few that look like I was photoshopped into pictures of the Three Sisters - I was there, I promise!). In general, it was a great weekend; I got some exercise, saw some beautiful things, and didn't think about homework once.

Quickie

I'm in New Zealand and it's absolutely gorgeous!

Pictures and more information to come when I'm not paying for internet.

12 Apostles in Melbourne

The first weekend in May, I took a holiday to Melbourne. For those curious, Australians don't pronounce their "r"s and Melbourne is pronounced "mel-bin" or, if you feel like being a bit more articulate, "mel-bun." This started with an overnight bus ride (something I'm great at after the one during break) that was, as all long bus rides are, slightly uncomfortable. I did get some sleep though, and in general it could have been worse.

We did a walking tour of the city the first day. Skylines in Australia are really different than those in the States; it's not all about how many skyscrapers can we fit on a block and who has a building with more stories. Though that sounds negative, I definitely have a soft spot skylines like New York's, so the big cities tend to seem sort of small and undeveloped here. Melbourne is a big rival of Sydney; it's a little more cultural and "artsy." We saw tons of little cafes and interesting architecture. One of my favorite aspects were these little alleys full of cafes and stores. It was nice to get away from the crowded streets and have lunch there. For me at least, it was kind of like discovering a spot that only non-tourists know about.

Some of the Melbourne skyline; back alley


Day 2 (aka Saturday) was spent on a daylong trip to the Great Ocean Road. This is one of Australia's most visited sites. It was built by soldiers returning from World War II as a way to create jobs. It follows the coastline about an hour outside of Melbourne. There are some gorgeous rock formations that are created by erosion of the coastline by a somewhat complicated process I won't go into here. The most famous is the 12 Apostles, which is a group of freestanding rocks, though there are only 9 left standing (the other 3 have fallen). We lucked out and got gorgeous 3pm lighting on the rocks, so I have about a million pictures of the same view. There's two kinds of people: those who look at this stuff and recognize it's beauty and those who look at it an think "That's it?!" I'm definitely one of the former, so it was great to spend the day with beautiful views. Too bad the photos are nothing in comparison to the real thing.

12 Apostles; London Bridge


Sunday morning was spent strolling in St. Kilda, a beach suburb of Melbourne (which also happens to be known for it's prostitutes...but as we were there in daylight it wasn't a problem). I had amazing pancakes at a cafe and drooled over treats in bakery windows. St. Kilda's is home to the original Luna Park, an amusment park also located in Sydney. They had what looked like an awesome wooden roller coaster, but it was closed for repairs and I couldn't ride it. That afternoon, we attended my first AFL game - Aussie Rules. Aussie Rules is a ridiculous amalgamation of a ton of different sports. There's a little bit of rugby, basketball, soccer, and volleyball with some unidentifiable bits thrown in. Nonetheless, it was a great game that looked hopeless for the home team at half time (26 to 75) but resulted in a huge come from behind victory in the second half (final score: 119 Melbourne to 113 Freemantle).

Fans celebrate a goal at the AFL game


This was followed by another overnight bus ride back to Sydney. I arrived back at the house at 5:30 am, promptly fell into bed, and didn't wake up until about 1 pm. All in all, it was a fun weekend away but I definitely prefer Sydney to Melbourne. When I got back, it was nice to be "home" (although don't tell my mom I said that or she'll be even more nervous that I want to relocate here).

Posts on a day trip to the Hunter Valley (for a wine tour) and a weekend in the Blue Mountains are on the way. Unfortunately, my house managed to use up our "unlimited" bandwidth for the month (because in Australia, you pay for everything), so the internet is really only tolerable after midnight which has become my bedtime as of late. I promise to get them up as soon as possible and without wanting to throw my laptop out a window.

Are you sure I'm not in DC?

This past weekend (April 19-20), I took a short trip about 3 1/2 hours south of Sydney to the Australian capital, Canberra (pronounced "can-bur-uh"). To answer your question before you can ask it - no, Sydney is not the capital. Much like in the States, there was a battle over which city would be the capital between Melbourne and Sydney; they compromised on an undeveloped piece of land located approximately equidistant from both cities. Like DC, it was unwanted land that, when appropriated, became a territory - the Australian Capital Territory (i.e. like DC, the ACT is not a full state but, unlike DC, does have representation in Parliament).

The city layout is very reminiscint of DC; the city's walkable, there are heaps of roundabouts (bigger than the ones they have in Sydney instead of stop signs), and the main sites are centered around a strip that runs from Parliament House to the War Memorial (sound like the Mall to anyone?).

Captain Cook Memorial Jet (you heard me right); view of the War Memorial from the roof of Parliament House


The street leading up to the Australian War Memorial is lined with various memorials. I took a couple of pictures, but none of the ones on the side I walked up were very interesting. I wish I had had the chance to go back and walk down the other side of the street, but by the time I was done inside the Memorial I was exhausted as I had been walking since I got off the train that afternoon (at noon) and it was near 2 o'clock. On this trip, I did my best to walk almost everywhere...it's a much more interesting way to see a city (and you plain see more of it). Thus, I took advantage of Canberra's layout. Inside the Memorial there was a pond with an eternal flame, lists of soldiers that served in various conflicts - reminiscent of the American Vietnam Memorial - and the tomb of an unknown soldier. Inside the room which held the tomb were some gorgeous stained glass windows. Also, the whole room was tiled in mosaics (see my flickr for all the pictures).

View inside the Memorial facing the Tomb; view out of the Memorial across the city


After walking from the train station (because I hadn't realized quite how far outside of the city it was and hadn't looked up bus routes...yay for exercise), doing half the walking tour described in my (borrowed) Lonely Planet, and seeing the War Memorial, I walked even further to my hostel and checked in around half past 2. Literally everything in Canberra (and Australia for that matter) closes at 5*, so I knew I limited time to do much more that afternoon. I ate a quick lunch and caught the bus to Parliament House. I managed to make it just early enough for the last tour of the day at 4. I lucked out - my tour consisted of the guide, a fellow study abroad student traveller, and myself. It was great having a very personalised tour. Unfortunately, there were a few places we couldn't got because of the 2020 Summit; the quick explaination is that Australia just got a new Prime Minister, Kevin Rudd, who thinks the people should be involved in government. The 2020 Summit was a gathering of lay people who met in commitee like groups to discuss issues relevant to themselves and Australia. They were using some of the rooms the tours usually go into, but it was cool nonetheless. Our tour guide was a traffic reporter as his day job, so that was interesting. Highlights of the tour included the view over the roof (which is basically a big hill), the story of the PM with the shortest tenure (8 days...and no, not because of death), and seeing another copy of the 1297 Magna Carta. I have now seen 1/2 of the 1297 Magna Carta's as one of the other four copies is held by the National Archives in DC.

Huge Australian flag that flies above Parliament House; Parliament House


I woke up bright and early on Sunday because I knew I had lots I wanted to do and not a ton of time in which to do it. I was out of bed by 7:30 (though I had set my alarm for 8, that's what happens when you stay in a 10 person shared hostel room) and checked out and on the bus by 8:30 to get to the National Museum of Australia by the time it opened at 9. And yes, Dad, those times are all in AM. The National Museum was really interesting; it wasn't huge so I gave myself an adequate amount of time (2ish hours), but I do wish I had had just a little longer. I then caught the bus back to the area around my hostel for an emergeny nail file (I had ripped a nail in the Museum and it was killing me, and I called my Mom to look up a chemist in the area as I had no available computer - go ahead and laugh) and lunch. After that, I went on a tour of Old Parliament House, which is just a few blocks away from the current Parliament House. The National Gallery of Art wasn't far away, so after my tour I walked there; they had a special exhibit on landscape called "From Turner to Monet," and if you know my taste in art you know I can't resist Monet, so I paid $15 to see it. As another similarity to DC, it was the only part of any museum I paid for on the trip. The rest of the Gallery was free, so (unsurprisingly), I wandered through the Modern Art section and got to see Diane Arbus' picture "Identical Twins," which I was really happy about.

Huge painting done as claim to Native Title by the Ngurrara people; view of Old Parliament House


After the Gallery, I considered going into the High Court and Questacon (aka the National Science Center), but I was tired and my feet were really hurting, so instead I went and sat on a bench for 40 minutes while waiting for the bus. The picture below was the street the bus stop was on; they weren't kidding when they said the trees are beautiful in Canberra in autumn (sidenote - I absolutely love that picture).

See, Australia does have seasons


So, that was my trip to Canberra. This weekend was ANZAC day, which is kind of like Memorial Day except much much bigger. I walked around the Botanical Gardens yesterday, and will try to post pictures soon, perhaps in conjunction with a recap of my trip to Melbourne (pronounced "mel-bin") next weekend.

On the uni front, this past week was the worst week I've had yet as far as work and probably the worst one I will have all semester...which is good because May is a busy month for travel for me. I'm just waiting on my finals schedule so I can plan my New Zealand trip in June.

* Which is when the pub opens and drinking begins, duh. Welcome to the Australian drinking culture/binge drinking problem.
Key: heaps = lots, many, very; chemist = pharmacy - Mom thought I was saying "Kenneth" over the phone

Travel Troubles

Generally, I like to consider myself a fairly capable traveller. Several times, I have been commended for my packing ability - especially when I am trying to bring a bag small enough for carry on. An excellent example of this would be my recent break trip (I don't know which break it was as no one can seem to agree...spring break for those in the States, technically mid-semester break for us though it fell no where near the middle of the semester, and occasionally fall break.) for which I packed 9+ days worth of clothes in a bag that fit snugly above my seat on the plane back to Sydney. I am the trip planner of choice for many and have travelled by myself multiple times both home from DC and to visit friends. This trip, however, has proven that I am not infallible when it comes to travel.

In an earlier entry, I mentioned a prolonged phone call with STA while in Los Angeles. So, to illustrate that I too make travel mistakes, here's the whole story. I booked my round trip tickets from LA to Sydney through STA travel as they had the cheapest flights I had come across. I had all of the information sent to my home address in Pennsylvania; while home over winter break, I looked over what they had sent to see if I needed any of it/if my tickets were included. I concluded that it was only the receipt and that there was no reason to bring this with me. Upon my arrival in LA, I discovered that some of those "receipts" were actually my ticket and that Qantas couldn't issue me new ones as they were not electronic. Thus commenced my hour and a half plus call to STA; first, they offered a flight the next day (no way), a flight a few hours later (nope, what if my arranged pick-up wasn't there), or a flight through Honolulu (tempting, but no thanks). In the end, I got new tickets on the same flights, but had to pay an additional $200. Excruciating? Yes, especially when you've been up for more than 24 hours.

Now, I admit I was stupid for not at least bringing the documentation with me. I still have trouble with some of STA's policies, however. First, I booked the tickets online; I asked the agent who fixed my problem if there is an option for electronic tickets when booking online. The answer? No. What?! You mean I can't have my tickets issued in the same way I purchase them? Seriously? Clearly, STA has an antiquated system that needs to be updated. Come on - this isn't the '90s anymore!

Oops number two, though less troublesome, was equally embarrassing. My only defense (if I have one at all) is that it was my first time travelling by train. Yup, that's the best I can do to absolve myself. Anyway, in order to get to Brisbane for my break trip, I opted to take the overnight train - all 14 hours of it - as it was the least expensive option. The itinerary/ticket was e-mailed to me, and the instructions were to print it out and bring it with me. I get a limited number of print credits through the study abroad office, so I went there to print it out. I couldn't get the option to print the selected text (it's been a long time since I've dealt extensively with Macs), so it was printing all of the frames of the Hotmail e-mail. Looking at the itinerary, it looked like the same information was repeated on the 2nd page, so I just printed out the 1st. Little did I know that my car and seat number were printed on that elusive 2nd page.

After arriving at the train station, I realized I had no idea if seats were assigned and that I had no seat number if they were. Being fairly unshakable, I decided I'd figure it out if I needed to, went to the furthest forward economy car, and took a seat. In my brief time in the wrong seat, I encountered a mother with her 5 children whose seat I had taken. In the end, I asked someone with a passenger log and found my assigned seat (in the same car and still a window).

Sigh. I guess this will keep me from getting cocky anytime in the near future, huh?

Finally, in somewhat related information - domestic travel in Australia is incredibly easy. I flew back to Sydney from Cairns; at the airport, I never once showed my ID or boarding pass to security. In fact, I never showed my ID to anyone. My shoes stayed firmly on my feet and liquids well over 3 ounces were brought on the plane with me (not contained in their very own plastic bag). I'd forgotten how nice it was to have quick security that doesn't require you to put every item you are carrying-on into a separate plastic tray and hope that your nail clippers aren't too pointy or that your deodorant is 3.0002 ounces and thus must be left behind.